• Bordeaux-Pavie.
  • Barrels at Chateau Mouton-Rothschild.
  • Bordeaux-Petrus.

Bordeaux... There’s a lot to explore

There’s a lot to explore when it comes to Bordeaux and the question of where to start that journey could take you many a glass of Bordeaux to debate.

As the French do like their rules and regulations, let’s start with the classification system. In 1855, being the lovers of red tape that they are, the French authorities created what became known as ‘The Classified Growths of the Médoc’. A five-tier classification of 61 of the leading Médoc châteaux (as well as two from Graves). This formalised lists that were already in place, based on each châteaux relative quality as expressed by the prices of each individual estate. These growths, or crus range from first (Premières Crus) through to fifth (Cinquièmes Crus). Over the years there has been very little change to the 1855 Classification other than Château Mouton Rothschild moving from second growth to first in 1973 (Baron Philippe de Rothschild reportedly saying - ‘Mouton I am, Second I am not’), Château Cantemerle added as a fifth growth in 1856 and Château Dubignon, a third growth, was absorbed into Château Malescot St Exupery.

Saint-Émilion added its own classification system in 1955, which has subsequently been frequently amended. Pomerol has never been classified, although the greatest wine from this region, Château Pétrus, is generally spoken of in the same hushed tones as the five first growths of the Médoc. 

The Médoc First Growths are; Château Lafite Rothschild (Pauillac); Château Margaux (Margaux); Château Latour (Pauillac); Château Haut-Brion (Graves); Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac).

Whilst much of the classification system holds true today, the inherent problem with a system is that some of the chateaux have improved out of sight since it was first introduced, while others are considered to have rested on their laurels, smug in the knowledge that their wines will always fetch high prices as this was what the classification was based on in the first place. Like anything, it is a good guide as long as one keeps in mind the fact that some of the wines outside its boundaries can still be superb.

Bordeaux is located in the South West of France and is the wine region that produces more top-quality wine than any other. Bordeaux is renowned for its reds which are often referred to as claret. The reason these wines attract so much interest and generate such high prices is largely their ability to age, with a lot of them not showing their true potential for decades. The main red grapes grown are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The most famous white region is that of Sauternes, where the world’s most luscious dessert wines come from. The white wines from Bordeaux are made with Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and in some cases Muscadelle. The very best white wines, like red wines from Bordeaux, are extremely age worthy.

Bordeaux is neatly divided into two groupings of appellations: those on the left bank of the Gironde and those on the right with the Dordogne running through them. In general terms, the left bank is home to Cabernet driven wines and the right bank Merlot dominant expressions. The appellations on the left bank include Margaux, Pauillac, Saint-Julien and Saint-Estèphe.  The appellations on the right bank include Fronsac, Lalande-de-Pomerol and the two great appellations of Saint Émilion and Pomerol.

The city of Bordeaux is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the heart of this unique region.  At the centre of all trade here is the négociant system, an historic route to market that remains strong today. The châteaux sell their wines to négociants who in turn offer them to their partners around the world. Essentially an open trading market, with a few exceptions. We are after all in France.

We have an extensive range of Bordeaux in stock. Each and every one of the wines we have tasted, selected and imported to Glengarry in temperature-controlled containers. You can be assured of the quality and the provenance of every bottle of Bordeaux in store. Throughout September we are celebrating all things Bordeaux with a massive feature on the wines. We look forward to seeing you in store soon.

www.glengarry.co.nz


By: , Wine with Liz Wheadon, Glengarry

Issue 102 September 2019